Confronting the dangers ofultra-processed foodWhich is healthier: a bag of crisps or a kale salad? That is easy. Now which is healthier: a pizza made from scratch or one made from the same basic ingredients, with the same number of calories, pulled out of a box in the freezer?哪个更健康：一袋薯片还是一份羽衣甘蓝沙拉？那很容易回答。现在哪个更健康：一份从头做的比萨还是一份使用相同基本成分制作的，卡路里相同的比萨，从冷冻箱里取出来的？
Many people concerned with what they eat would instinctively say the former, perhaps citing a vagueconcern with “processed food”. Such food can often be delicious. (This columnist has a particular weakness for salty potato crisps.) And there is much to cheer about calories being cheap and abundant, when for most of human history they were neither. But as Chris van Tulleken’s new book, “ultra-Processed People”, explains, that cheapness and abundance come at a cost.许多关心自己饮食的人本能地会选择前者，可能会提到对“加工食品”的模糊担忧。这种食品通常非常美味。（本专栏作家特别爱吃咸薯片。）而且卡路里便宜且充足，对于人类历史的大部分时间来说，卡路里既不便宜也不充足。但正如克里斯·范·图列肯（Chris van Tulleken）的新书《超加工人》所解释的那样，这种廉价和充足是有代价的。Mr van Tulleken, a doctor and television presenter, draws a distinction between “ultra-processed food” (UPF) and “processed food”. Almost everything people consume is processed in some form: rice is harvested and hulled, animals are butchered. He uses a definition proposed by Carlos Monteiro, a food scientist, describing UPF as “formulations of ingredients, mostly of exclusive industrial use, made by a series of industrial processes, many requiring sophisticated equipment and technology”. A pizza made from scratch contains minimallyprocessed food (wheat turned into flour, tomatoes into sauce, milk into cheese). The one in the freezer, with its thiamine mononitrate and sodium phosphate, is UPF.范·图列肯是一名医生和电视节目主持人，他区分了“超加工食品”（UPF）和“加工食品”。人们消费的几乎所有食物都在某种程度上经过加工：大米被收割和去壳，动物被宰杀。他使用了食品科学家卡洛斯·蒙特罗（Carlos Monteiro）提出的定义，将UPF描述为“配方成分，主要是专业工业使用的成分，通过一系列工业过程制成，其中许多过程需要先进设备和技术”。从头做的比萨含有最少程度的加工食品（小麦加工成面粉，番茄制成酱，牛奶制成奶酪）。冷冻箱里的那个比萨，含有硝酸单硝酸盐和磷酸钠等添加剂，属于UPF。The cocktail of additives and preservatives in UPF harm people in ways both known and unknown. It seems to affect the gut microbiome, the trillions of bacteria that contribute to health in a range of ways. Calorie-rich but usually nutrient-poor, UPF contributes to obesity in part because its palatability and soft texture fosteroverconsumption, overriding satiety signals from the brain.UPF中的添加剂和防腐剂的混合物以各种已知和未知的方式伤害人体。它似乎影响肠道微生物组，即为健康做出贡献的数万亿细菌。UPF虽然富含卡路里但通常缺乏营养，部分因为其可口的味道和柔软的质地促使人们食量过多，覆盖了大脑的饱食信号。Because this frankenfood is cheap to produce and buy, UPF displaces healthier alternatives, particularly for poor people. Extra weight was once a sign of wealth, but among British and American women today, obesity rates are higher at lower-income levels. (Curiously, rates do not vary for men, even though a greater share of American men than women are obese.)由于这种“科学怪物食品”生产和购买成本低廉，UPF取代了更健康的替代品，尤其是对于贫困人口。过去，体重曾是财富的象征，但在英国和美国的女性中，肥胖率在低收入水平上更高。（有趣的是，男性的肥胖率没有变化，尽管在美国，肥胖的男性比例比女性高。）The reasons why UPF can be harmful are not always clear, even to scientists. Additives that may be safe in isolation or small quantities may be harmful in combination with other chemicals or when consumed regularly. If we are what we eat, considering the impact of UPF is essential, but too often Mr van Tulleken’s case for clean food is accompanied by anti-capitalist preening: for instance, he nonsensically calls corporate-tax minimisation “part of ultra-processing”.UPF可能会有害的原因并不总是清楚，甚至对科学家来说也是如此。在孤立或小量情况下可能安全的添加剂，在与其他化学物质混合使用或经常食用时可能有害。如果我们是我们吃的东西，考虑UPF的影响是必要的，但范·图列肯先生为清洁食品辩护的案例经常伴随着反资本主义的装腔作势，例如，他荒谬地将“企业减税”称为“超加工的一部分”。Environment matters, too. People who live in what the author calls “food swamps”, where “UPF is everywhere but real food is harder to reach”, could spend large amounts of time and money seeking out fresh food, but that is not how most people live. There is nothing wrong with the odd fast-food trip, but anyone who can afford to eat less UPF probably should.环境也很重要。生活在作者所称的“食物沼泽”中的人，那里“UPF无处不在，但真正的食物难以触及”，可能需要花费大量时间和金钱寻找新鲜食物，但这并不是大多数人的生活方式。偶尔吃快餐没有什么问题，但任何能够负担得起减少UPF摄入的人可能都应该这样做。①短语：1.原文：Now which is healthier: a pizza made from scratch or one made from the same basic ingredients词典：from scratch 从头开始，从零开始（做起）例句：I learned German from scratch in six months.我从零学起，六个月学会了德语。They decided to dismantle the machine and start again from scratch.他们决定拆掉机器，从头再来。2.原文：Now which is healthier: a pizza made from scratch or one made from the same basic ingredients词典：be made from sth 由……制成例句：How many products are made from nylon? 有多少种产品是由尼龙制造的？Syntheticsilk can be made from wood fibres. 人造丝可用木纤维制造。3.原文：Many people concerned with what they eat would instinctively say the former词典：be concerned with/about sth 对……很关切、感兴趣例句：They were more concerned with how the other women had dressed than in what the speaker was saying.她们对别的妇女的衣着打扮比对发言人的讲话更加感兴趣。4.原文：that cheapness and abundance come at a cost.词典：come at a cost付出代价例句：Constant monitoring, overscheduling and protecting children from their own problems can come at a cost.持续监控、为孩子制定过多计划、不让孩子面对自己的问题，这些做法最后都可能导致不良后果。5.原文：Mr van Tulleken, a doctor and television presenter, draws a distinction between “ultra-processed food” (UPF) and “processed food”词典：draw/make a distinction between A and B 把A和B区分开来例句：Philosophers did not use to make a distinction between arts and science.哲学家过去习惯不把艺术和科学区别开来。We need to draw a distinction between the two events.我们得把两起事件区别开来。6.原文：wheat turned into flour, tomatoes into sauce, milk into cheese词典：turn into sth变成……例句：The party is betting that the presidential race will turn into a battle for younger voters 该党期待这次总统竞选变成一场争取年轻一代选民的斗争。Ithink I have got to stop or I might turn into a machine 我想我得停下来了，否则我就会变成一台机器。7.原文：The cocktail of additives and preservatives in UPF harm people in ways both known and unknown.词典：a cocktail of sth (尤指不宜搭配在一起的材料构成的)合成物，混合物例句：The court was told she had taken a cocktail of drugs and alcohol.有人在法庭上指称她把毒品和烈酒混在一起喝下去了。8.原文：the trillions of bacteria that contribute to health in a range of ways.词典：a range of sth 一系列……例句：The hotel offers a wide range of facilities.这家酒店提供各种各样的设施。There is a full range of activities for children.这里有给孩子们提供的各种活动。9.原文：Additives that may be safe in isolation or small quantities词典：in isolation 孤立地、单独地例句：Punishment cannot be discussed in isolation from social theory. 不能脱离社会理论孤立地讨论惩罚。Tomake sense, these figures should not be looked at in isolation. 这些数据不应孤立起来看，否则就没有意义。10.原文：may be harmful in combination with other chemicals or when consumed regularly词典：in combination with sth 与……结合例句：A retrospective analysis was done in combination with the condition of trauma and operation.结合创伤和手术情况，进行了回顾性分析。11.原文：but too often Mr van Tulleken’s case for clean food is accompanied by anti-capitalist preening词典：be accompanied by sth 伴随，与……同时发生例句：This volume of essays was designed to accompany an exhibition in Cologne...这本文集是为配合在科隆举办的一场展览而出的。12.原文：for instance, he nonsensically calls corporate-tax minimisation “part of ultra-processing”.词典：for instance 例如，比如例句：What would you do, for instance, if you found a member of staff stealing?比如说，如果你发现有职员偷东西，你会怎么办？13.原文：could spend large amounts of time and money seeking out fresh food, but that is not how most people live.词典：seek sb/sth↔out挑选出；物色；寻找到例句：Now is the time for local companies to seek out business opportunities in Europe.对于当地公司来说，现在是时候去欧洲寻求商机了。②长难句1.原文：Heusesa definition proposed by Carlos Monteiro, a food scientist, describing UPF as “formulations of ingredients, mostly of exclusive industrial use, made by a series of industrial processes, many requiring sophisticated equipment and technology”.2.分析：主句是主谓宾结构He（主语）uses（谓语动词）a definition（宾语）。proposed by Carlos Monteiro是后置定语修饰definition，表示这一概念由卡洛斯·蒙泰罗提出。a food scientist是同位语，修饰Carlos Monteiro，表明该人是一位食品科学家。describing UPF as“formulations of ingredients是现在分词作状语，表示把超加工食品描述成“成分配方”（formulations of ingredients），之后的内容均是在修饰ingredients，后面的mostly of exclusive industrial use、made by a series of industrial processes、many requiring sophisticated equipment and technology都是定语。3.译文：范·塔勒肯引用了食品科学家卡洛斯·蒙泰罗（Carlos Monteiro）提出的概念，将超加工食品描述为“由各种成分配比而来，其中大多数成分仅用于工业生产，并要经历一系列工业流程，很多流程都需要先进的设备与技术”。1.原文：Peoplewho live in what the author calls “food swamps”, where “UPF is everywhere but real food is harder to reach”, could spend large amounts of time and moneyseeking out fresh food, but that is not how most people live.2.分析：首先找出主句的主谓宾结构People（主语）could spend（谓语动词）large amounts of time and money（宾语），其中涉及spend sth doing sth“花费……做某事”的表达，即seeking out fresh food在句中为现在分词作状语。who live in what the author calls “food swamps”是由who引导的定语从句，修饰people。其中的what the author calls “food swamps”是由what引导的宾语。where “UPF is everywhere but real food is harder to reach”是定语从句。最后是but 连接的和主句一起的并列句that is not how most people live。3.译文：作者在书中把“超加工食品无处不在，但真正的食物难以得到”之处称为“食物沼泽”。住在“食物沼泽”中的人们会花费大量时间与金钱去寻找新鲜食品，但这并非大多数人的生活。③写作技巧:The cocktail of additives and preservatives in UPF harm people in ways both known and unknown.超加工食品中，添加剂和防腐剂混合使用，以已知和未知的方式来对人体造成伤害。表达：known and unknown都属于后置定语修饰ways，因此可以总结出一种表达in ways both known and unknown，表示“以已知和未知的方式来……”。比如在写到环境污染等话题时，也可以用该表达说明人为污染以很多方式对环境造成破坏。此外，还可以搭配其他相对或者近义的形容词来灵活组词，例如in ways both beneficial and detrimental（有利有害的方式）、in ways both steady and progressive（稳中有进的方式）。例句：Each and every single day, some young person is out there changing the world in ways both big and small.每一天都有一些年轻人在或多或少地改变着世界。④背景知识：超加工食品：超加工食品是在已经加工过的食品基础上再加工的食品，这类食品通常含有五种以上工业制剂，并且是高糖、高脂、高热量的食品，长期食用会增加患癌风险。主要是指食品含有的盐、糖、油和脂肪外的工业成分，如用来增加感官刺激的添加剂、用来保鲜的防腐剂等。面包、奶油蛋糕、巧克力、苏打汽水、即食汤等都是超加工食品。除了这些，由糖、脂肪及氢化植物油和变性淀粉等不是在日常厨房使用中的物质所制成的食品，也属于超加工食品。这些食品通常也被称为垃圾食品。⑤段落大意：【1】通过两个设问来引出健康食品的话题【2】廉价且丰富的卡路里是有代价的【3】加工食品与超加工食品的区别【4】超加工食品中添加剂和防腐剂混用对人体有害【5】超加工食品会替代健康的食品【6】超加工食品有害的原因尚不明朗【7】人们应该少吃超加工食品声明：本文全文摘选自《经济学人》，仅供个人学习交流使用。商业转载请在正文前注明本文来自: "外刊每日精选精读公众号”。公号服务：提供600+外刊杂志英语学习资料，可下载，可打印。扫码获取所有外刊资源
